Moreish Marseille: Culinary Evolution in the South of France

“The sunlight glittering off Marseille’s Old Port is almost blinding as I emerge from the metro. It’s springlike in early February and a crowd of skateboarders and teenagers are taking in the rays as fishermen pack up their stalls from the

daily morning market, a young couple dangle their legs off the edge of the quay, sipping takeout coffee, and two old men on a bench stare out to sea.

This is Marseille: a shared moment outdoors in the sunshine. Suddenly life feels almost normal. At my hotel just across the quay I can shed my winter armour,”